Before the first measurement is taken, the most important decision has already been made. Cloth is not a detail — it is the foundation of everything.

Why Fabric Is the First Decision

Most men think of a bespoke commission in terms of cut and fit. But beneath every great suit is a cloth chosen with the same deliberation as the silhouette itself. The wrong fabric — too light for the occasion, too heavy for the climate, too fragile for daily wear — will undermine even the most precise tailoring.

At RN Tailoring, every commission begins with cloth. Richard Neasham presents bunches from the world’s most respected mills at the initial consultation — in your home, in natural light, where the true character of each cloth can be seen and felt.

Scabal: The Connoisseur’s Choice

Founded in Brussels in 1938, Scabal has built its reputation on extraordinary Super 150s and 180s worsteds, cashmere blends and novelty cloths woven with silk and genuine gold thread. Their fabrics are used by the leading houses of Savile Row and by the most discerning tailors across Europe.

For a boardroom suit of absolute authority — performing equally in a City of London meeting room and a Geneva conference — Scabal’s classic navy and charcoal worsteds represent the standard others aspire to match.

Best For

Boardroom and formal professional wear · Occasion suits requiring cloth of extraordinary character · Clients who want the finest available and will not compromise

Holland & Sherry: The British Standard

Established in 1836 and rooted in the Scottish Borders, Holland & Sherry is among the most respected names in British suiting. Their range spans everyday worsteds through to exceptional Highland tweeds, cashmere overcoating and lightweight tropical wools.

What distinguishes Holland & Sherry above all else is consistency. A cloth chosen today will be available in identical character three or four years from now — allowing clients to build co-ordinating wardrobes with complete confidence.

Best For

Classic British tailoring in navy, charcoal and grey · Wedding and occasion commissions requiring enduring formality · Clients building a co-ordinated wardrobe across multiple commissions

Dugdale Brothers: Built for Performance

Established in 1896, Dugdale Brothers & Co. have long been the supplier of choice for professionals who require cloth that combines elegance with genuine durability. Their Classic range of pure wool worsteds produces garments that maintain their structure through daily wear without ever appearing laboured.

Best For

Suits designed for heavy professional use · Cloths that hold structure through long working weeks · Clients who prioritise durability alongside appearance

Reading the Bunch: What to Look for in Person

No photograph of a cloth tells you what it feels like in the hand, how it drapes or how it reflects light. This is why cloth selection at RN Tailoring is always conducted in person. Richard brings bunches to your location and discusses each option in terms of weight, structure, seasonal suitability and purpose.